The Italian job(s)

Want to know what its liking cycling in north west Italy in the beautiful Genoa (Liguria) region on an Italian bike? Read on for more on the area, the bike and the riding.

During May 2017, 2018 and 2019, I took on a trio of Italian cycling challenges as I was invited to join the Genoa International Shipping ride. Invited to participate by fellow cycling enthusiasts and industry colleagues Angelo and Pietro, the event was designed to bring people together from my work industry, namely maritime law and insurance. The event would take place over the course of a long weekend and apart from the stunning cycling there were plenty of opportunities to get to know Genoa as well as network with fellow industry professionals. Participants were also encouraged to make a donation to the local children's cancer hospital Gaslini in Genoa - a very worthwhile cause.

The area

The north western region of Liguria in Italy may not be the most famous of cycling destinations compared to its alpine neighbours. The area nevertheless boats some fantastic cycling along the seaside towns and cities of the Italian Riviera and up into the Ligurian mountains.

In the west is San Remo, the most cosmopolitan city of the Riviera di Ponente. It is home to the finish of ‘The Spring classic’ or ‘La Classicissima’, the annual race between Milan and San Remo. Covering a distance of nearly 300km (approximately 185 miles) it is the longest professional one-day race in modern cycling. The race is one of the five monuments of cycling, or six if you include Strade Bianchi.

Further east is Genoa, the ancient, sprawling port city and capital of the region. It has a dense and fascinating old quarter with an eclectic mix of tastes and styles. In 2015, it hosted stage two of the Giro d’Italia (the tour of Italy) where Italian sprinter Elia Viviani won an exciting finish on the city's main boulevard, Via XX Settembre.

Usually taking place in May each year, the Giro is one of cycling’s three Grand Tours, along with the Tour de France and the Vuelta a España. The leader of the race famously wears the pink jersey or maglia rosa. It is so coloured because the pages of the sports newspaper that founded the race, La Gazzetta dello Sport, are pink. However, the solid pink jersey has occasionally been modified like in 2009, when Dolce & Gabbana designed the jersey to include a collar and side panels edged in the green, white and red colours of the Italian flag to celebrate the Giro’s centenary.

The bike

Cycling in Italy would not be complete without riding an Italian steed. It had to be Colnago for my Italian challenge! The company has been producing high quality bikes since 1954 and is often credited as being one of the first bike manufacturers to use high quality carbon fiber. Its now-famous 'Asso di Fiori' or Ace of Clubs logo has appeared in many grand tours and classics through the years. Its founder Ernesto Colnago is still considered the patriarch of the Colnago factory and arguably of Italian cycling.

I was fortunate that the Colnago bike I was to ride was arranged by Mr Mimmo Nastasi of Ciclo Mania bike shop. Located just east of Genoa, Mimmo's bike shop is a great option to hire bikes when exploring the region. He has been in the bike industry for many years including associations with several racing teams. The love of cycling clearly runs in the family as he has been followed into the industry by his two sons.

The ride

Before we could start cycling, there was the small matter of a pre event pasta party. Taking place in a local restaurant off Palazzo Ducale in the centre of Genoa, it was a fine setting to start proceedings. It was here that the organisers provided details of the riding and handed out the event jerseys - it was clear that the D&G version of the maglia rosa jersey (noted above) was the inspiration for the stylish jerseys! With plenty of carbs on offer plus some fine Italian wine and beers, the riders were well fuelled for the riding the next day. But for a few negroni cocktails in bar Mattoni Rossi opposite our hotel Melia, it was the perfect preparation!

The rendezvous location the next morning was the Piazza De Ferrari in the centre of town. Situated at the end of the famous Via XX Settembre, the piazza features an impressive fountain in the middle designed by Giuseppe Crosa di Vergagni. Once assembled, the riders rolled out of town and headed east along the coast to the seaside district of Boccadasse. There was just time for a group photo before we headed inland to tackle the main climb of the day, Monte Fasce. Sitting at 832m above sea level, Monte Fasce is one of a series of peaks that dominate the hillsides around Genoa.

After leaving Boccadasse, the road soon pitched up as we left the coast. The route snaked back and forth through the outlying suburbs of the city as we set out sights on the communications towers clearly visible at the summit. The total climb was just under 10km with an average gradient of 7% with plenty of steep sections above 10%. After nearly an hour of rhythmical churning of the pedals, we finally crested the top. From the summit of Monte Fasce, the spread of Genoa was evident as the city fanned out along the coast. The famous hill forts and ancient walls of a bygone era could also be seen from here.

The exertions of the climb were rewarded by a brilliantly fast and sweeping descent. After a series of twists and turns, we made our way back to sea level to the town of Recco, part of the greater Genoa area. Heavily bombed by the Allies in WWII, the town was rebuilt during the middle part of the last century. It was not however the buildings that dominated the view but Recco bridge, one of several giant beam bridges along this stretch of coastline.

Before too long we are again climbing passing Camogli as we headed eastwards towards Santa Marghritta Ligure. The route then took a southerly turning as we made for the famous bay of Portofino. Protected by an inlet and surrounded by lush cypress and olive clad slopes it was easy to see why Portofino is a mecca for yacht owners from all over the world. Thankfully our lunch stop avoided the yachties and other tourists as we were hosted by the local branch of Yacht Club Italiano. Here, we were treated to some fine hospitality including a range of juices, focaccia and of course espressos. It would have been easy to while away the hours and soak up the sun.

We soon climbed back onto the bikes and were on our way. Whilst most of the hard cycling was complete, there were still several kilometers of Italian tarmac to cover before we reached our destination. In the first two of the trio rides, the route took us westwards along the coast back into Genoa where a post event party was arranged at the Elpis Rowing Club. In the last of the trio of rides, the route took us eastwards to the seaside town of Sestri Levante and the post event party at Hotel Due Mari. The parties coincided beautifully with the finish of a stage of the Giro d’Italia on TV. Plenty of refreshments were enjoyed as the sun went down on a brilliant event.

Ride highlights

• Pre event pasta party

• Bike hire from Mimmo at Ciclo Mania bike shop

• Exploring the beautiful city of Genoa

• Riding from sea level to the top of Monte Fasce at 832m above sea level

• Tasting the best of Liguria’s distinctive food including focaccia, trofie and pesto

• Post event ‘Giro d’Italia’ party

• Bonus ride the following day

Links

• http://www.visitgenoa.it/en/

• https://www.ciclomania-liguria.it/

• https://www.colnago.com/en/

• https://www.elpisgenova.com/

• https://www.duemarihotelsestrilevante.it/en/home